Chemical peels are not only procedures for cleansing the face with various compositions, which mainly include acids of varying degrees of action. In addition to removing dead cells of the epidermis, exfoliants (as experts call their preparations) remove small scars and ruts, age spots, acne marks, wrinkles are smoothed, and the oval of the face is tightened.
Among the general variety, Jessner’s peel is well-deservedly popular due to its relative simplicity, not too long preparatory period and moderate post-peel care for treated skin. This type of peeling is certainly in the range of services of almost any beauty parlor or clinic.
What is a Jessner Peel
Contrary to the beautiful legend about an American military doctor named Jessner, who during the Second World War, taking care of the crew of a submarine, came up with an effective antiseptic, the real story is much more prosaic. Max Jessner was a German-born New York dermatologist who fled Nazi Germany in the mid-thirties against the National Socialist regime. Jessner developed his unique formulation in the early forties for the treatment of hyperkeratosis while already a professor at New York University. Somewhat later, Jessner’s solution and its combinations began to be used as a peeling on the face.
The plot, of course, without romance and a submarine, but the Jessner peel, due to its brilliant effect, really gained incredible popularity and may have been used by sailors during long voyages. Not to mention the prevalence of Jessner peeling in large Hollywood circles.
Types of Jessner peels
Jessner’s peeling using a unique composition can be superficial, medium, and deep – it all depends on the number of layers of exfoliant applied to the skin. Before the procedure, a preliminary consultation with a cosmetologist is required and it is ideal if the specialist has a medical education in the field of dermatology. We must not forget that everyone has features and the procedure proposed by a friend may not necessarily suit you.
Jessner Peel Ingredients
The classic composition of Jessner’s solution includes equal percentages (14% each) of resorcinol, salicylic acid and lactic acid in ethyl alcohol 95%. Over time, the composition has undergone some changes: the main exfoliants – salicylic and lactic acid, have remained the same, and instead of resorcinol, lactonic, citric acids or a combination of them, as well as TCA – trichloroacetic acid, are used. Before starting the Jessner peeling procedure, it is necessary to do allergy tests for intolerance to each component of the drug.
The action of salicylic acid
First of all, salicylic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect, as well as keratolytic and drying. It is used in many surface preparations, including for cleansing the pores of the skin of the face, in the fight against comedones and inflammation.
The action of lactic acid
Lactic acid works as a whitening and exfoliating keratolytic, as well as a collagen stimulator and an effective moisturizer. Demonstrates a rejuvenating effect on the face.
The action of resorcinol
The main role of resorcinol, which is included in Jessner peeling, is to enhance the effect of lactic and salicylic acids, and resorcinol also has a good disinfecting property.
The modified Jessner peeling solution acts on the client’s skin, as a rule, much softer than the classic one with resorcinol, but at the same time, the result of the procedure is no less effective. The combination of the composition is thought out in advance, taking into account the achievement of the goal. Cosmetologists do not recommend using Hollywood peeling – both superficial and median, and deep, at home, but only under the supervision of a specialist in a salon or clinic.
Indications for a Jessner Peel
Jessner peel is recommended by a specialist when there are reasons such as:
- skin pigmentation
- bumps, traces of acne on the face
- oily porous skin with comedones
- small wrinkles, stretch marks, signs of skin aging
- shallow cuts and scars
As a rule, Jessner peeling leaves a visible effect on the face after the first procedure.
Contraindications for Jessner Peeling
Jessner peels are, like any chemical peels, a controlled burn of the skin surface, which is why it is so important to carefully study the possible consequences of peeling. Among the contraindications can be listed:
- allergic reactions to constituent substances
- unhealed open wounds, cuts and sores on the face
- infectious diseases and, first of all, skin diseases in the acute stage
- malignant tumors in the body
- all forms of diabetes
- large moles (nevi) on the skin in the area of application of the composition
- Couperosis of the face
- period of pregnancy and lactation
For admission to the procedure, so as not to harm the skin and the general state of your health, it is important to let the beautician know about all the contraindications. The specialist must assess your condition, take into account the degree of manifestation of the disease and the danger of peeling in each individual situation.
Benefits of a Jessner Peel
Jessner peel, although carried out with a mixture of acids, has a rather mild effect. Suitable for almost all skin types, except for very thin and sensitive skin, for which the action of almost any chemical peel can have undesirable consequences. In addition to the face, peeling can be carried out on other areas with damaged skin.
The procedure, if it is carried out under the vigilant supervision of an experienced specialist, is quite safe, the consequences are predictable, and complications are extremely rare.
Pre-peeling preparation does not involve taking drugs in advance or long-term severe restrictions, with the exception of tanning – there is a categorical ban here, otherwise the manifestation of the pigment on the skin will be unpredictable. And to protect yourself from sunburn, it is important to use a cream with an spf of at least 30 for a month.
The recovery period is painless for 5-10 days and depends on the depth of penetration of the composition. And the result will pleasantly surprise you after the very first procedure: the skin will be renewed, filled with light, smoothed out.
Another important advantage of Jessner peeling is its availability at any age, even in adolescence, with the recommendation of a dermatologist.
Disadvantages of Jessner Peels
Doctors recommend doing Jessner peeling only during the period of minimum solar activity, that is, in autumn and winter. Otherwise, hyperpigmentation is possible. Such a limited seasonality is a sad drawback, but in the “dark” season, you can please yourself with a clean, updated …